Iona & Glencarse 13-15 July

Tues 13 July
I was up early enough to enjoy a quick breakfast downstairs and then head to Glasgow Queen St station at 8am in order to get the 8.21 train to Oban. This was about a 4hr journey which took us through the most spectacular scenery. At times we travelled alongside lochs and other times inbetween high mountains. Various breeds of sheep could be seen at most heights, and it was all very green. I have not been to Scandinavia but the terrain with the lochs and mountains certainly made me thing it was similar scenery.

We arrived in Oban then it was directly onto the ferry to Craignure on the Isle of Mull, a journey of about 50min. This is a large passenger and vehicle ferry. Like in so many places in the UK, dogs are allowed, so there were several out on one of the main passenger decks. They were all very well behaved, although one gorgeous golden retriever was a little stressed, and I suspect would have crawled onto his owner’s lap if he wasn’t so big.

I met a lovely young American woman on the ferry, Kristin. We then travelled together on the bus across the island of Mull, another hour’s journey, to Fionhport. Iona was now in sight, with only a 5 min ferry road to go. Kristin is a medical student, currently on holidays, and visiting her friend who works on Iona.

Once we reached Iona we went our separate ways. I found my way to the B&B which Kirrilee had booked for us, and Gill was there to meet me. Kirrilee was on a walking pilgrimage tour of the island but returned not long after. We had afternoon tea at a cafe followed by a little walk around including a quick visit to the Iona Abbey shop before it closed. From there we walked to the northern end of the island and, while rather grey and overcast, could get a glimpse of the sun starting to make its journey toward the horizon.

Dinner was at the same cafe as afternoon tea and was amazing. The produce used is all fresh, local, fair-trade produce. We passed several of the gardens owned by various proprietors. The seafood is from around the island, and the meat is from the Isle of Mull opposite. It was just wonderful. How food can taste so naturally good when it’s home grown!

Kirrilee and I went off to Evening Prayer at the Abbey, my first visit to the Abbey. It was a simple but rather beautiful service of prayer for healing (every Tuesday night). We were all rather tired then so it was time to head to bed.

Wed 14 July
This morning we woke to rain and wind. I had managed to sleep in and consequently missed Morning Prayer in the Abbey – will have to set my alarm for tomorrow! Both Gill and Kirrilee made it however and afterwards we went for a walk to the western side of the island (we’re on the eastern side). It was rather blustery but the rain had stopped. The west side has the most beautiful coloured rocks on the sand. We explored and picked up various rocks, and chose a few to bring back with us. The scenery along the way was domesticated in terms of there being occasional farmhouses and quite a few sheep, yet it also felt very wild – possibly something to do with the wind!

Gill and I had wanted to go to Staff Island. (This had been recommended to me by Ron and Marion in Fairlie). They usually have both morning and afternoon trips. After lunch, Gill and I did go off on a trip. Earlier in the day I had given in trying to make do with layers of summer clothes, and purchased a fleece – I just didn’t bring warm clothes with me. Fortunately I did bring a coat, so with the fleece and coat, I was OK. The captain told us when we got on that it would be fairly rough today, and that those in the open air at the back would get very wet, so we decided to sit inside the cabin. We quickly went over to Fionnphort to pick up a few more people, then hugged the Mull coastline for a little while hoping to see some seals, which we did, thanks to the captain. The bigger older seals just lay looking quite bored, ignoring us, but the smaller younger seals jumped into the water and swam towards us to check us out. We also watched a number of gannets who were having the most wonderful feed. They didn’t look that large but their wing span is 6 ft. They hover above the water and then dive suddenly into the water for their catch, then up into the air again. Amazing birds to watch. Then it was out into open sea.

This wasn’t a very large boat and it certainly rolled a lot, and the people at the back definitely got wet. The crewman ensured they all had waterproof jackets on and even provided a couple of tarps to put over them.

I don’t normally get seasick but I was very glad when we got the Staffa. We had hopes of seeing Puffins on the island, but also wanted to see Fingal’s cave (made famous by Mendelssohn in his Hebrides symphony). Gill and I started on the walk to the north end of the island, the most likely place to find puffins, but after about 20 mins struggling in the wind, we decided to head back the other way to go to Fingal’s cave. We at least knew that we would see that, whereas puffins were not a certainty, and we only had an hour on the island. The path to the cave was along this basalt columns. They were just extraordinary. Many of them were hexagonal in shape and all fitted neatly together like in a perfect game of tetris. At times the path was very narrow and we were glad that the wind was blowing us into the cliff face rather than the other way! Once we got to the cave Gill and I had it to ourselves. We sang a little (Shout to the Lord, Duncan Alleluia, Hallelujah chorus) and it had a marvellous echo. It also made its own sounds, we think from a blow hole at the end of the cave.

The return trip wasn’t quite as wet and ‘rolly’ as the way over, but still had its moments. Two of the guests were a mother and child about 3-4yrs old. The child was very seasick on the way over but picked up on the island. They were staying at a cottage a reasonable walk from the Fionnphort jetty so the captain decided we’d try to drop them off. There wasn’t a proper wharf, just an outcrop of rocks with a piece of rope strung along. Our friendly crewperson straddled the water with one foot on the boat, and one on the rocks with his intention being to pass the child over. Unfortunately the boat drifted away from the rocks and he was doing the splits until he had no alternative but to jump in. All Gill and I saw at the time was this big splash, we only found out the details later. We did see him clamber up onto the rocks quickly but then others were fishing for something, we didn’t know what. It turned out to be his yellow wellington boot that he’d lost in the process. So they fished it out, and he tipped it out before putting back on. Poor bloke but he was very good humoured about it, reckoning the water wasn’t cold, and that we should go for a swim!

We had a fabulous dinner at one of the hotels, again with all local and very fresh produce (they too grow their own vegetables), then straight to Evening Prayer in the Abbey. Tonight’s service included a reflection on doors – what was our front door like (we were invited to draw it) and asked to consider how it related to or represented us. Later we were invited to reflect on different doors, and particularly the door of our heart. What is our response when we hear Jesus knocking at our door? A lovely guided reflection. It is still overcast and breezy outside, making it feel wild, but good. We’ve also heard that there has been much rain over much of Scotland so we are very grateful that the rain held off for us after breakfast.

Iona is a special place and I would certainly like to come back and spend more time here. The island also has Fair Trade accreditation, and it is so wonderful to see the local produce, and the taste of it is so very good. Last night and tonight the meals were an experience for the tastebuds, worth savouring every mouthful. I could get used to this... But it didn’t need to be complicated either. A simple green salad can taste so good with various lettuce leaves picked that day. The fish comes from sustainable sources. All very encouraging.

Thurs 15 July
I knew that today we had to catch the 10.45 ferry which was earlier than I had anticipated and there was much I still wanted to see and explore. So I got up at 6.30am and was out by 7am hoping breakfast would have started then, but alas it hadn’t. So I went off for a walk intending to go to the northern point of the island. I only walked a few hundred metres into the grounds of the ruins of the Nunnery to take a few photos when my camera battery died. So I thought I’d return to our room, put it on charge and hopefully breakfast would be available at 7.30am. No such luck. So I found a quiet place not far from our room sitting on some rocks overlooking the sea and read my Bible, reflected and prayed, then returned again hoping for breakfast, and at least a partially charged camera battery. Breakfast was finally available at 8am which I gulped down, then headed off with my battery! Back to the Nunnery and then to the Abbey which I hadn’t had a good look at yet. I had the time to wander around, spend some time in a tiny stand alone chapel, light some candles for different people, then head in for Morning Prayer. And aren't cloisters just fabulous places???!!!

This morning I was able to sit in the choir stalls which was much further forward then I’d been previously for Evening Prayer. It was lovely. After Morning Prayer it was a dash around to take a few more photos, and a quick trip into a couple of shops as well. There were so many books I wanted to get but the thought of trying to cart them around was just too much. I am of course hoping that the ones I have bought will be useful once I get home!

It was time to get the first ferry and then jump into Gill’s hire car. (Visitor’s cars are not allowed on the island of Iona, only residents and service vehicles). It was a lovely drive back across the island of Mull with a few sudden stops. It is a single lane road with passing spots. Fortunately these passing spots are regular but even so, sometimes you meet someone just at the wrong time so it can be necessary to stop and reverse a bit. Arriving in Craignure we lined up for the ferry. Although we had time to spare, there were many vehicles already lined up. When the ferry arrived at the wharf we watched its bow rise up, then the ramp come down – quite an engineering feat and very weird seeing the bow of the boat up in the air! Again a wonderful trip back across to the mainland arriving in Oban. Kirrilee cleverly spotted a seal on the way who was obviously on a mission, no playing around or checking us out – s/he was on a course.

Once in Oban we stopped to grab a cup of fresh, and very cheap, seafood from a trailer for lunch then headed to Perthshire. Like the train journey from Glasgow to Oban, the scenery was spectacular. There are so very many streams coming down the mountains – one wonders how there can be so much water up the top of the mountain to feed them. But many of them were covered by low cloud too.

We arrived back at Kirrilee’s home approx 5.30pm. Ewan had prepared a very tasty dinner with 2 Indian curries. The 3 children displayed their joy of having their Mum home again (she’d been away since Sunday night), in different ways. Kirrilee showed me around, including her church which is situated just in front of the rectory.
I feel rather guilty as I’m in Toby’s room ie he’s been kicked out to make room for me!

Off to the first conference tomorrow.